Eastern & Oriental Hotel

Founded in 1885 by the Sarkies Brothers — the Armenian hoteliers later behind Raffles Singapore and The Strand in Yangon — the Eastern & Oriental is the grande dame of Penang. Its white colonnaded wings face the Strait of Malacca across a long seafront lawn, and the domed lobby, planters' bar and breezy verandahs preserve the unhurried theatre of the Straits Settlements era. George Town's UNESCO-listed shophouse streets, temples and celebrated street food begin immediately behind the hotel.

The historic Heritage Wing is all-suite, with butler service, high ceilings, timber floors and sea-facing balconies that catch the afternoon light; the newer Victory Annexe adds contemporary suites and its own infinity pool at gentler formality. Rates across both wings are strikingly reasonable for the heritage on offer, which makes the E&O one of Asia's best-value grand hotels rather than a splurge.

Days here settle into a pleasing rhythm: breakfast under the dome, mornings among George Town's clan houses and kopitiams, a swim as the strait turns silver, then gin at Farquhar's Bar as the ceiling fans turn. Dining spans a polished grill room and Malaysian and colonial classics done properly. It is a hotel for atmosphere-seekers; those wanting beach resort facilities should look to Batu Ferringhi up the coast.