Hôtel Lutetia

The Lutetia stands apart from its Right Bank rivals in both geography and temperament. Built in 1910 at the edge of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, its sculpted façade caught the moment Art Nouveau tipped into Art Deco, and its salons went on to host generations of writers, artists and musicians drawn to the literary Left Bank. A four-year restoration led by architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, completed in 2018, stripped the interiors back to their frescoes and light wells while adding a crisp contemporary layer.

The result reads more like a grand modern hotel with historic bones than a gilded museum piece. Rooms favour pale oak, sculpted plaster and marble bathrooms, with corner suites looking towards the rooftops of Saint-Germain; the famous jazz bar and the colonnaded brasserie keep the hotel plugged into neighbourhood life in a way few palaces manage.

Dining is anchored by a brasserie overseen by the acclaimed Marseille chef Gérald Passedat, whose Mediterranean seafood cooking suits the light-filled room, while Bar Joséphine has become a Left Bank destination in its own right. Below ground, a substantial spa with a 17-metre pool is a genuine rarity in this quarter. For travellers who prefer bookshops and galleries to flagship boutiques, this is the palace that fits.